By Mark Vaughan

Having spent six years in Spain during the 1970s, any excuse to return to the land of sun and shade is a good one. So, when the opportunity arose to visit the vineyards of Calatayud, a wine growing region and commercial center that I had not visited before, I jumped at the chance.

Located in semi-autonomous region of Aragón, about 60 miles southwest of Zaragoza, the Calatayud DO is part of the Ebro Valley region, best known for Rioja. Nestle in the arid, windswept food hills of the Ibérico mountain system (Sistema Ibérico?), the climate (hot, dry summers and cold winters) is excellent for cultivating fullbodied, flavored red wines.

Most of the best grapes in Calatayud come from vineyards planted as high as 3,700 feet above sea level in soil so rocky with limestone and shale that it is difficult to understand how anything grows there. The starkly beautiful, desert-like landscape is nearly devoid of trees. Though 11 different red varietals grow in the DO, the indigenous Granacha Tinta (Grenache) dominates, followed by Tempranillo, and small but increasing plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Highlights of my trip included a visit to the town of Calatayud, a wine tasting at Bodegas San Alejandro and a tasting and vineyard tour with Norrel Robertson, a Scottish master of wine and winery consultant who has a passion for the area.

Founded by the Romans, Calatayud (Qal`at 'Ayy b or Ayyub's fort) takes its name from the impressive medieval Moorish fortress that dominates the town. From the fortress, one has an amazing view of the old town below, with its narrow streets and impressive stone and whitewashed buildings, which blend Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural elements. Beyond the old city, modern buildings rise against the stark, hilly landscape. The Moors dominated the region for nearly 500 years, but by the 12th century, Calatayud was firmly under Christian control. It was Aragon’s own King Ferdinand II (and his wife, Queen Isabella I of Castile) who finally expelled the last of the Moors from Spain in 1492. Ferdinand, an ardent Catholic, encouraged the building of many churches, including Calatayud’s beautiful Church of Santa María, which boasts one of the most elegant Moorish-style bell towers in all of Spain.

Bodegas San Alejandro, located nearby in the small hillside town of Miedes, has an interesting story of its own. Founded as a cooperative in 1962, its 350 growers cultivate over 2,700 acres of grapes. Over the past decade, San Alejandro has undergone a major transformation, updating its production facilities, taking a more direct approach to vineyard management, and focusing on quality over quantity. Under the leadership of Yolanda Díaz, the beautiful and energetic managing director, who is one of the few women in Spain to head a major wine company, San Alejandro has gained international recognition for its brands. Notable examples include the Baltasar Gracián Reserva (70% Garnacha, 20% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon), Baltasar Gracián Calatayud Superior (100% Garnacha), and the Las Rocas Old Vine Garnacha.

Like Yolanda Díaz, Norrel “The Flying Scotsman” Robertson brims with enthusiasm for Calatayud. His personal tour of the region took us up hill and down dale, to some of the most remot and starkly beautiful vineyards I have visited. At nearly 4,000 feet, we came to the edge of the vineyard line, beyond which grape vines simply won’t grow. Robertson personally directs the production of his own wine brands, which bear such unorthodox names as La Multa (the traffic ticket), Papa Luna (daddy moon), and El Puño (the fist). His wines are full-bodied and flavorful Garnacha and Garnacha-based blends with Syrah, Monastrell, and Tempranillo. Prices ranging from $12 to $50, make Robertson’s wines (like many from Calatayud) terrific values.

WHERE TO STAY
There are a number of good to excellent hotels in Calatayud. I particularly liked the Castillo de Ayud II, with its restored Victoria “guest house” adjacent to the new über-deluxe main building that features excellent dining, spa, fitness, wifi, and business facilities. For more traditional digs try the Husa Monasterio Benedictino, which offers a range of modern conveniences in an historical setting.
Hotel Castillo de Ayud II
Avenida de la Diputación
8, Calatayud 50300.
Zaragoza
Tel: 976 88 00 88/976 89 74 63
www.hotelcastillodeayud.com

WHERE TO EAT
For dining, the restaurant at the Castillo de Ayud II prepares excellent contemporary Spanish dishes.
Another good choice is El Patio de Goya at the El Patio hotel, www.hotelelpatio.es, where head chef José
Carlos Martín offers award winning Aragonese cuisine (for simpler fare, try Asador San Ramón).
For more information visit www.docalatayud.com and www.espavino.com/spain_wine_regionwines_calatayud.php

About the author:
Mark Vaughan is editor and publisher of Santé, The Magazine of Wine and Spirits Management, a publication dedicated to increasing onpremise sales of wines and spirits by providing information and management advice pertinent to operating a successful beverage program.