By Nacho Monclús
Asking Spaniards to separate their wines from their cuisine would be akin to separating peanut butter from jelly. Fortunately, life has given me the opportunity to travel the world and expand my palate beyond the confines of my beloved Iberian gastronomy. In this way – and in the marvelous learning process that is travel – I set out for Brazil. I put on the gastronomic ambassador hat (familiar to all Spaniards living and traveling abroad), and filled my bags (and what’s worse, those of my Brazilian friends) with an incredible quantity of Spanish wine. Two of every kind, we joked. A virtual Noah’s Ark of Spanish wine.
The wines came from the cellars of my beloved restaurant “Di Vino” of Segovia. It was in this restaurant that I learned all that I know about the world of wine from Lucio del Campo (winner of Nariz de Oro, an annual competition to select the best sommelier in the country) and Henar Puente (first female ever to win “Best Sommelier” in Spain), both of whom inspired me.
I arrived in the northeastern Brazilian region of Pernambuco with my liquid cargo intact, borne on my shoulders – a backpacker without a clear destination. Here I experienced a delicious cuisine which was the product of mixing local indigenous, European and African cultures. This is a story envisioned as an elaborate meal, where wine and food are paired in conjunction with sensations and surroundings.
In the tradition of marking occasions worthy of celebration, we will begin with Cava. Agustí Torelló Reserva Barrica is a 100% Macabeo Cava, one third of which is new wine, one third aged in stainless steel tanks, with the remaining portion aged in oak. The complexity and body of this wine pair perfectly with the seemingly unending array of appetizers that the beach vendors have to offer – oysters, crab, fried cheese and a variety of soups. The fascinating interplay of the bubbles from the Cava and foam of the waves seemingly emphasize the pairing. We continue on to my friend Sergihno’s house in Recife where we enjoyed Camarão na Moranga (pumpkin with shrimp soup) paired with Abadal Picapoll D.O. Pla de Bages. Drinking wine produced from this indigenous Spanish grape is not unlike walking through the São José market in Recife where the aroma of flowers and fruit wafting through the air seem to come from another world.
Our next stop is Maragogi, another wine from my slightly lighter bag – Ossian Verdejo D.O. Rueda. Here I enjoyed the star dish of Brazilian gastronomy – Feijoada, which is a mixture of beans, rice and various pork products (ears, feet, etc.). Taking into account the heat of the midday sun, the Verdejo seemed like the perfect pairing. Depending on the temperature at which it is served, the Ossian Verdejo can be paired with a variety of cuisines. Following the meal (and in accordance with time-honored Spanish traditions), I took a siesta on the beach in the shade of a palm tree (something I later realized could have been dangerous due to falling coconuts). When I opened my eyes, I realized that I had stumbled upon the perfect description of Ossian. Awakening to the pleasant sensation of the rising tide bathing my feet is quite similar to the sensation the Ossian’s fruity weight stimulating the palate. I awoke in the sand as the pre-phylloxera Verdejo awakened from a nine month “siesta” in French oak.
We continue our tour on the beach. This time we have Galinha Cabidela (chicken cooked in its blood) on our plates and Mibal Joven in our glasses – a pure expression of an unoaked Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero revealing itself in the nude. Each sip of Mibal is like stepping into the sea at one of Brazil’s infinite beaches where you can lose sight of the shore without ever going underwater. To refresh yourself with its fruit is like walking in the fine sands of its tannins. If you want to dive into a more complex Tempranillo, you can try its older brothers Mibal Selección or Perfil.
I cannot leave Recife without experiencing a typical Brazilian Rodizio, where I enjoy the Picanha (grilled beef tenderloin) and taste the numerous meats that flood the table, policed only by manual “stop” and “go” signs. The wines, Pujanza Norte and Roda I, both from Rioja, are perfect complements to such a carnivorous feast. They have spent extended time in French oak, and present dark fruit and notes of toast and chocolate. This aspect of Rioja wine has much in common with the city of Olinda. Both were created under the umbrella of the old world – European colonialism for Olinda and the traditions of Rioja for these enological gems. The city and the wines amplify their rich heritage, adding color and vivacity. A walk through Olinda is more about contemplating the surroundings than simply observing. Similarly, drinking Roda I or Pujanza is about savoring rather than simply sipping.
I have discovered that if there is one word to describe Brazil, it would be “sweet.” Sweet beaches, sweet music, sweet people. Perhaps that is why the desserts here are so exponentially sweet. Bolo de Rolo is a wheat pastry with sugar, paired with a fruit marmalade, in this case, guava. Just as I tend to pair chocolate with Pedro Ximénez, I tend to pair fruit with Moscatel. Chivite Vendimia Tardía from Vinos de Navarra is a wonderful botrytized Moscatel, aged for six months in French oak. Drinking this wine is like waiting for a kiss – when you bring the glass to your mouth, you close your eyes in anxious anticipation of the aroma before the wine even touches your lips.
Having completed this long voyage of pleasures we can at last relax around the table over a glass of Sherry – Oloroso Tradición VORS. Averaging 39 years old, with notes of mahogany, brown sugar, tobacco…the soft breeze of the Pernambuco sunset, the sounds of the ocean in the background – these types of Sherries allow one to reach conclusions. My conclusion? Brazil is a world of sensations and when paired with Spanish
wines, the experience is infinitely enhanced!
Nacho Monclús graduated from the University of Valladolid with a degree in Advertising and Public Relations. He was the first in his promotion in the Curso de Sumilleres de Madrid. He lives in New York.
