As Patricia Langton discovers, Navarra’s colorful wines and gastronomy make a pilgrimage to the region well worthwhile.

It is probably no coincidence that the most popular route of El Camino de Santiago (the Way of St James) passes through the heart of Navarra’s vineyards. Established in medieval times, the route includes a section stretching some 80km from Pamplona to Viana on the border with Rioja.

Today, over 40,000 people make their way through this part of the region where ancient monasteries and medieval landmarks rub shoulders with both long-established and more modern bodegas. The great diversity of Navarra’s wine and food is enjoyed by those passing through, just as it has for many centuries.

Although there are some common themes running through the region’s wines, Navarra thrives on diversity. Historic events and geographical location have influenced its local culture and its wines too: the region borders the Basque Country, Rioja, Aragón and the Pyrenees. At one time Navarra was a medieval kingdom in its own right and it still enjoys certain independence in its affairs – this goes back to the rights and freedom granted by King Ferdinand in 1512 in return for the people’s allegiance.

Navarra was formerly associated with rosé wines made from the Garnacha grape, but there has been a major shift towards modern reds, which now account for over half the wines produced. Red wines are usually based on Tempranillo with French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot providing supporting acts. However, some excellent Garnacha reds and occasionally wines made from Graciano, a traditional variety which
is challenging to grow but capable of producing deeply colored inky wines of great elegance and character, can be found. Indeed, traditional grape varieties are increasingly valued by producers alongside international grapes. Red wines can feature the best of both, with no set formula.

This was clearly demonstrated during my recent stay in the region when I visited Inurrieta, a producer at Falces. Here one of the partners in the winery, Juan Mari Antoñana, who is also an excellent cook, invited me to try the bodega’s Sur wine, a blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Merlot with his take on cordero al chilindrón (lamb cooked with dried peppers, garlic and olive oil). The grapes in this blend make a harmonious blend and the wine was a great match with lamb. (Other top red wine producers of note are Chivite, Nekeas and Ochoa).

Navarra’s rosé wines are enjoying a renaissance after having been eclipsed, somewhat unfairly, by the new generation of their red siblings in recent years. Most bodegas, including Ochoa and Señorío de Sarría, offer a rosé. They are dry in style and generally offer good color and structure due to the saignée or free-run method. This is a more complex way to make rosé wines but results in higher quality wines that are particularly food friendly – an ideal match for cured ham and salads and
shellfish.

Navarra’s white wines fall into two camps: dry styles are made from Chardonnay and occasionally Garnacha Blanca and Moscatel de grano menudo (Muscat à petits grains) while sweet wines are made from Moscatel which is encouraged to over-ripen in the hotter south of the region and picked in late autumn. Navarra’s sweet wines, pale gold in color with hints of sultana and lychee and fresh acidity, can be excellent. Sweet Moscatel wines are often served at the start of a meal with foie gras in local restaurants. Bodegas Julián Chivite and Bodegas Camilo Castilla should both be credited for excellent sweet wines. Finally, a brief word
about another speciality – pacharán, a liqueur usually enjoyed at the end of the meal. Pacharán is an anisebased drink and it owes its pinky-red colour to the addition of sloe berries known as pacharanes. As the
locals say, salud!

WHERE TO EAT:
Enjoy wine and tapas in Pamplona’s old town at:
La Mandarra de la Ramos, Baserri and Otano in Calle San Nicolás;
Bodegón de Sarría and Fitero in Calle Estafeta;
Letyana in Avenida Bayona (Barrio San Juan).
Dine in style:
Alambra and Enekorri restaurants
in Pamplona and Restaurante Tubal in Tafalla.

WHERE TO ST AY:
Hotel La Perla
Plaza del Castillo, 1
www.granhotellaperla.com
The only five-star hotel in Pamplona and well situated
in the city. Ernest Hemingway and other famous people
have stayed here.

Hotel Maisonnave
Calle Nueva, 20
www.hotelmaisonnave.es
Family run and located in the old town.

Hotel Restaurante Europa,
Calle Espoza y Mina, 11
www.hreuropa.com
Also family-run and offers a very good restaurant.

For more information visit:
www.VinoNavarra.com
www.turismo.navarra.es
www.noblesdelreyno.com (for smaller hotels of character) and
www.restaurantesdelreyno.com (for good restaurants in the region).

About the author:
Patricia Langton is an independent journalist specializing in Spanish wines who lives in London. She contributes to a number of publications including Spain Gourmetour, online website winesfromspainuk.com, Off Licence News and Square Meal. Patricia is also the coauthor of 500 White Wines (available internationally).